The waters surrounding the island of South Georgia are as treacherous as any on the planet. Even at the most inviting times of year, winds are apt to top hurricane force and roughly coax dark ocean swells to a riotous crescendo. Not surprisingly, no one had ever solo-kayaked around the island. Perhaps no less surprising, wilderness guide and expedition leader Hayley Shephard takes up the challenge. Shephard is a passionate and off-kilter character with an endearing penchant for tilting at improbable odds. In this case, it’s not just circumnavigation of the remote, wind-and-wave-battered island, but Shephard’s hope to help save the great albatross that is severely threatened by overfishing, longline fishing and the plastic detritus that too often ends up in albatross bellies.